Climbing washington pass liberty crack climb

Washington pass the place to get a taste of that alpine ambiance at the cost of a cragging approach. Located on a standalone rock, this climb is an absolute mustdo for any trad climberwhether you climb 5. The smashandgrab school of weekend maximization rei co. The key to going fast on liberty crack is free climbing as much as possible. We are able to customize trips for climbers of all abilities.

The washington pass area includes some spectacular and easily accessible alpine granite climbs, ranging in difficulty from the 5. Washington pass s climbing history dates back to the 1930s with a lot of routes going up in the 1960s and 1970s. This is the big one the tallest mountain in the northeast. Washington is situated at the intersection of three major storm tracks which affect the northern appalachian range. There are hundreds of possible climbing and scrambling routes in the washington pass area from 3rd and 4th class scrambles to moderate alpine classics to aid climbing lines. The famed liberty crack route was added in 1965, and most other of what are. The book has a nice combination of classics as well as moderate and fun looking newer and less known routes which is nice. Washington pass climbing liberty bell, concord, lexington. Pete told me that they were going to climb liberty crack, so i told him that i would make a video of it. The beckey route is quite possibly the most famous alpine rock climb in all of the north cascades. Washington pass climbing north cascades mountain guides.

Aac publications liberty bell, the dark side of liberty. The liberty crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof 2 pitches upon its right side. In 20, a new route was established by darin berdinka and gene pires on the north side of vesper. The supertopo washington pass climbing book is a fantastic guide to one of the better alpine areas in washington state. Beautiful new testpiece in north cascades climbing magazine.

It is known for erratic weather and extremely strong winds. Excellent write up of the fa history, authors own ascent story and a good topo and route description. Hike the cathedral rock trail to squaw lake and beyond to cathedral pass. The rock quality is generally solid and clean with good texture. The third pitch starts off with class 3 climbing for the first 30 feet. For the best and most complete guide book to climbing in the area pick up a copy ian. This is just to give you a general idea of what to bring. These granite rock climbs feature both crack and face climbing, on rock. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges.

Washington pass is an alpine climbing area with all the usual hazardsstorms, loose rock, snowfields. Our mission is to make washington a better place to climb through advocacy, stewardship, and education. And while it holds countless classics, sail away is one of the best. Liberty mountain climbing blog facebook instagram twitter. The mountaineers teaches skills and leads outdoor activities for all ages and levels in the pacific northwest. For visiting climbers on the more advanced side of the spectrum you probably have your sights on the famous grade v liberty crack, but there is quite a bit of climbing for the slightly less ambitious.

New england winter climbing new hampshire mountain guides. Do you want to climb the mountain that is known to have the worst weather in the world. Washington pass is the largest collection of easily accessible alpine rock. Liberty bell mountain is located in the north cascades, approximately one mile south of washington pass on the north cascades highway. The area also has classic aid routes such as liberty crack on liberty bell.

Of the remaining six pitches, three were fun and sustained 5. Everything except the lithuanian lip can be climbed free at up to 5. The best climbing on freedom rider is actually on liberty crack, and the medusa roofs despite having one of the coolest names of any pitch were just a big wet chimney, not what we had imagined for the best 5. If you pass the washington pass overlook, you have gone too far. However, crack climbing can be an acquired taste, one that can bring you to a world of pain and misery.

The climbing varies from easy 400 foot routes to difficult multiday aid routes on its 1200 foot east face. There is an awesome crack running out right that you. V liberty crack, but there is quite a bit of climbing for the slightly less ambitious. Liberty crack liberty bell north cascades, washington, usa.

The liberty crack is a technical rock climbing route on liberty bell mountain near washington pass and is featured in fifty classic climbs of north america. While researching the history of the route for a guidebook cascades rock i learned that the crux pitch a crack climb and by far the hardest lead had never seen a redpoint ascent, but. This pitch is one of the most enjoyable of the climb, combining slab and. Climbing cracks requires very different movements from face climbing there is some overlap, and theres also the issue of protection. Washington pass climbing info everything you need to. Free supertopo to liberty crack and cutthroat peak. Offering the most moderate route up this iconic peak, the beckey route follows the southwest face up a clever series of cracks, chimneys and slabs for four pitches to the summit of liberty bell.

The clean granite of washington pass and the liberty bell group provides some of the best and most accessible alpine rock climbing in the pacific northwest. But the supershort approach from state route 20short by alpine standards anywayalong with a selection of great. Located on the spectacular washington pass, liberty bell is a domelike mass that is one of 5 peaks that comprise the liberty bell massif. Liberty bell is the most northern spire of the liberty bell group, a group of spires which also includes concord tower, lexington tower, north early winters spire, and south early winters spire it is a well known peak in washington, although it lacks high. Its best known for summit climbs like the beckey route and liberty crack on liberty bell, the closest tower to the road. How to get started climbing cracks, from fingersize to the wide stuff, and the sizes in between. Rock climb liberty crack free, northwest region mountain project. Participants can expect an 810 hour climb up the winter lion. The adventure junkies is here to put you on the right path to enjoying, not despising, cracks. Then comes the south and west faces with modest climbs in the 5. Today, crack climbing is often viewed as the territory of fearless. Faster parties with aid climbing experience can climb the route in a single day. Rock climb liberty crack, northwest region mountain project.

Photo overlay of liberty crack on aerial photo taken in feb 2012, created in 2017. The trail will bring you to the east face of liberty bell. The beckey route also called south west face on liberty bell is the most famous climb in the liberty bell group and a alpine classic. Joshua tree needs little introduction as a paradise for funky and unique granite crack climbing. Mount washington in winter northeast mountaineering. Liberty bell beckey route north cascade mountain guides. Washington pass is really more of an alpine rock climbing area than a. Following this there is an excellent crack system to follow with many sections of high quality 5. Climb to the summit of liberty bell via the beckey route. The two classic routes are the 400 foot beckey route 5. Scramble up the south ridge or from the peggys pond trail until you reach the rock formation. Ice climbing in washington north american iceclimbing.

Liberty bell stands guard over washington pass, and all climbers driving over highway 20 stop to drool. Liberty crack, on the east face of liberty bell, is one of the most famous routes in the pacific northwest. Its a good line and im sure its better when dry, but overall the value is more in the position than the climbing. Concord tower is the summit immediately south of liberty bell mountain in the liberty bell group above washington pass in the north cascades of washington state. This route has much less fixed gear than liberty crack, though pitches one, two and four feature nice bolted stances, though hanging. To see all of the climbs ive done at wa pass, go to my climbing at wa. Park in the nordic center lot and hike to the climbs. Here we will help with the basics of how to crack climb, from the right shoes to the right gloves to the right technique. Classics like the southwest buttress of south early winter spire make for rewarding outings for intermediate climbers, while the spectacular liberty crack challenges the most advanced. The liberty crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof 2. She nabbed a first female ascent of the thin red line 5. This crack system brings you up to a somewhat intimidating roof with a bombay flaring chimney running through it luckily this is not where the route goes.

Skinner burned out the grease with a blowtorch, and eventually succeeded on what was, at that time, the most difficult crack climb in the u. It leads to a large crack in the next set of blocky boulders, up to a finger crack over a slab, leading left to right around a corner. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack. The wcc is a 501c3 nonprofit organization ein 421644686 search. Washington passs climbing history dates back to the 1930s with a lot of routes going up in the 1960s and 1970s.

Deepest day of the year at stevens pass the good life pnw episode 3 duration. Most routes climb high quality granite crack systems on traditional climbing gear. Heres the rack we at supertopo bring when we climb around wa pass. This particular wall can be found at approximately 3500 feet, 1. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with reallife experiences and advice from fellow climbers.

Finally, is the mercifully short approach, especially for a cascades climb. Washington pass in the north cascades, liberty bell 7,720 is a striking granite monolith that harbors a number of great routes, from easy novice climbs. First is the east face, with its steep big wall climbs. The liberty crack is listed in the book the 50 classic climbs of north. Besides the great climbing to approach ratio, the relatively pointy summits composed of mostly solid granite are the other draw here. Liberty bell stands guard over washington pass, and all climbers driving over highway. Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of washington pass on highway 20. Washington towers over its neighbors at an elevation of 6,288ft.